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When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary triumph.